These ancient chapels at Howmore (Tobha Mor) in South Uist were an important ecclesiastical centre for many centuries and the burial place of Clan Ranald chiefs.
Howmore is a traditional crofting township where some thatched cottages still survive and the chapels are in a tranquil setting on the edge of the village.
There are remains of four chapels that date back to medieval times and two burial enclosures that are post-medieval. It isn’t known exactly how old they are or when the first chapel was built.
This is the first chapel you come to and it sits on croft land outside the walled enclosure where the other ruins are. It’s a tiny chapel with a steeply pitched roof, similar in style to chapels found at early Irish monastic sites.
Caibeal Chlann ‘ic Ailein (Clann Ranald’s Chapel) is another tiny chapel and is at the northern end of the site.
Caibeal Dhiarmaid (St. Dermot’s Chapel) was a bigger building in the centre of the complex but only one wall is left standing.
The largest structure still standing is Teampull Mòr (The big church) or St. Mary’s. This was the parish church for South Uist and it was built towards the end of the Norse period when a system of parish churches was established in the islands. The tall windows would suggest it is 13th century.
A more recent ruin – the walls of a derelict thatched cottage close to the Chapel ruins.
The South Uist hills form a backdrop to the east and it is only a short walk to the long sandy beaches that stretch all the way down the west coast.
To get to the chapels you walk past a white-washed thatched cottage and this is one of the Gatliff Trust Hebridean Hostels. There are three of them in the Western Isles and they provide simple accommodation in old cottages. I’m sure it’s usually very busy with walkers doing the Hebridean Way but there was no sign of life around it this day as it was still closed due to Covid. Hopefully it will be opening again soon.
A short walk across the machair brings you to the beach and to where the Howmore river reaches the sea.
A truly beautiful place, particularly on a sunny day like this!
Salt Air and Sea Pinks 
Beautiful! I remember visiting here a few years ago.
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I hadn’t been there for quite a few years and had forgotten what a lovely place it is. I noticed from my old photos that there used to be more old cottages, including thatched ones, that were still inhabited then but are now derelict.
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Wonderful photos of a stunning land and seascape 😊🙋♂️
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